For as long as I can remember, I’ve wanted to visit New Orleans. Mardi Gras, in particular, since it happens to fall near my birthday. So when I decided a year ago I would spend my fiftieth in the city I’d long romanticized, I was ecstatic my dream birthday trip was coming true. With eight of my best friends on board to join me and my husband, we were going to have the time of our lives. And I didn’t truly appreciate that saying until it literally became the trip of a lifetime for me.
Rewind to December 1, 2023. If you’ve watched my Vlog or follow my personal Facebook page, you know what happened. A nearly two-inch tumor burst through my colon and spread its disease to my liver and lymph nodes. After emergency surgery, I started chemotherapy and have been fighting since to rid myself of stage IV metastatic colon cancer. A fight that threatened my dream trip to NOLA.
After completing session one of twelve, I crossed my fingers the side effects would be minimal. And they were. But if my doctor hadn’t agreed to schedule my second session around the trip, or if I was further along in my sessions, I would not have been able to go, as the harsh effects will cumulate. So the sheer luck that NOLA fell at the front end of treatment was my sign I was still destined to spend my fiftieth draped in beads. That’s right, in the midst of starting chemo, I still went. Because if ever there was a YOLO moment for me, this was it.
It was everything I’d hoped for, minus the fact I couldn’t partake in Hurricanes and Hand Grenades. But anymore, booze does me more harm than good. And honestly, having an adventure I can actually remember, instead of the blackout binge fest my romps typically ride on, is way more important to me these days. So allow me to take you on a condensed trip down itinerary lane, because a lot of fun was had and I want to be able to re-read this post and recall my fond memories.
February 8, 2024
After arriving Thursday evening, we stood on Canal Street and watched the Krewe of Muses parade. They did not disappoint! With mostly women running the show, it gave me the “you go girl” boost I needed to start my trip off right. My favorite float, of sorts, was the individual, go-cart bathtubs powered by glamorous Muses. Damn, they looked like they were having fun!
February 9, 2024
Friday morning, we ventured out to Honey Island swamp. Because you can’t go to New Orleans without seeing an alligator and I’m not into ones on a stick. We lucked out they were emerging from brumation. A little lazy, but that’s how I like my gators. Just lay still and look deadly so I can take your picture without losing an arm.
That night was balcony party
night at our hotel. Located in the CBD, The Blake Hotel was chosen specifically
for its location on the parade route and its walkability to the French Quarter
and streetcar to the Garden District. It’s not the lap of luxury, but it’s
clean, safe, and has comfy beds and super friendly staff. Also, breakfast in
their cafe is really good.
All the huge parades pass in front of The Blake. It’s a common misconception the parades run down Bourbon Street. They do not. Only a few walking parades veer down it, and as day becomes night, the whole scene becomes a parade of boobs and booze. More on that in a bit.
The balcony proved to be an
awesome choice, putting us eye-level with the Krewes. Imagine being pelted with
throws by colorfully dressed characters in masks. A little unnerving at first,
but just hold out your hands and if something hits them, make a fist. Beads,
footballs, frisbees, rubber chickens, stuffies… you name it, we caught it. And
thus began the addiction to get as many throws as we could.
February 10, 2024
Saturday morning, we had the religious experience of coffee and beignets at Cafe Du Monde. The line is long, but goes fast, and so worth the wait.
We walked the French Quarter, then met Sallie Ann Glassman, one of New Orleans’ Haitian-ordained Voodoo Priestess. Her shop, Island of Salvation Botanica, was full of the eclectic mix of herbs and chicken feet you’d expect, and if you want to truly learn about Voodoo… real Vodou… this is the place.
Saturday night was our big group dinner at Oceana Grill, followed by a haunted French Quarter ghost tour. It was a blast, walking the area while listening to the macabre stories that capture the city’s past. The most haunted is the LaLaurie mansion, and not because it was once owned by the eccentric Nick Cage for a spell. Yes, that Nick Cage. If you want a glimpse of what went down in that house, watch American Horror Story Season 3, Coven. Just don’t try to eat dinner while you watch it.
February 11, 2024
The next day was Super Bowl Sunday, and we had plenty of time to sit in the grandstands in front of our hotel and watch three more parades beforehand. If you can’t decide if you’d rather balcony or grandstand it, let me help you out. Do both. They are completely different experiences and you get more throws in the grandstands. A crap ton more. Just be careful not to fall down the stairs like my accident-prone husband while trying to snag a coveted light-up strand. At least he didn’t break anything this time (except his fake cigar).
February 12, 2024
Monday morning we toured St Louis Cemetery No 1. The final resting place of Marie Laveau, and eventually… wait for it… Nick Cage. There’s a bunch of other famous figures entombed there that the tour guide will tell you about, but what I found intriguing was their burial method. Not sure I’d want to be put in a coffin, cremate inside of it for a year and a day in my above ground pizza oven tomb, then have my bones deposited into the dirt at the bottom of said tomb. But to each their own.
Monday night was dinner at Mister Oso and more parades! It was a tad cold and fatigue was catching up with me, so I turned in early to recharge while the others grew their trophy pile.
February 13, 2024
Fat Tuesday morning. We started the day at Sallie Ann’s Vodou temple, partaking in a ceremony to invite the Gede to Mardi Gras. We’d happily accepted her invite and the chance to experience something not many get to see. If you think Vodou is just about gris-gris and black magic, it’s not. Vodou is about empowerment and healing, so you can probably guess why I was attracted to learning more. The blessing chants Sallie’s followers sang and the floor drawing she created to call out to the Gede were both spiritual and full of actual spirits. Gede love rum, if you didn’t know.
After the ceremony, we headed to the St Anne foot Parade. This is NOT a normal float parade. This is the locals walking parade, and if you think Halloween parties have great costumes, you ain’t seen nothin.’ It’s obvious NOLA residents take pride in their Mardi Gras ensembles and the vibe of the crowd was amazing. It’s magical when you’re surrounded by accepting revelers looking for nothing but a good, safe time. We were on point, dressed in purple and black, along with the rest of Sallie’s “Gaggle of Gedes.” I can’t thank her enough for the kindness she extended to our group, and hopefully this post makes her spirit smile because we had an amazing time.
Fast forward a few hours. After
a costume change and dinner at Hard Rock Cafe, we were smack dab in the middle
of a much different parade. The boobie parade, as I called it. Ah, yes. Bourbon
Street on Fat Tuesday. The one night a year you can view a never-ending display
of nipple glitter. The street is packed to its uneven curbs with party goers
looking for beads and booze, and there’s no shortage of either. Every balcony
was full, and if I was to do anything different, it would be that next time I’d
spend Fat Tuesday on one of those balconies. I made it about two blocks before
I had to get out of there. Too many people in the streets for me, but it was
fun for a bit and I got to see a long-time friend for a hot minute who just
happened to also be there.
February 14, 2024
Wednesday was the pièce de résistance. It began with a ride on the St Charles Streetcar to the Garden District, where we saw the iconic homes I can only dream of owning. The favorites belonged to Sandra Bullock, Anne Rice, the Manning family, John Goodman, and…wait for it… Nick Cage. Sadly, Mr. Cage lost both this Garden District and French Quarter homes to foreclosure, but I’m pretty sure his tomb is paid off so he’ll still get to rest in the city he loves, someday.
But the reason why this particular tour was so special to me was that it started and ended at the gates of Lafayette Cemetery No 1. The same cemetery my mother played in as a child, as depicted in my novel, The Ginhouse Hollow. It was closed for maintenance, so we couldn’t venture inside, but I felt like I already knew my way through it. I Facetime’d my mom so she could experience it with me, and we had a moment. She’d wanted to go on this trip with me, but health issues prevented it. This was the next best thing. She said it looked exactly the same as she remembered and it filled my heart with happiness that I could show her.
That night we had our last supper at Copper Vine, and boy did we save the best for last. Amazing food and ambiance, and the perfect nightcap to a perfect vacation.
February 15, 2024
My husband and I had post Valentine’s Day beignets, covered in chocolate and strawberries, then walked the French Quarter hand-in-hand before heading home. And I can’t imagine a sweeter way to end our adventure.
A lot of planning went into our trip. Outfits, tours, and dinner reservations were all part of it. And that planning kept me sane between the time I left the hospital (after surgery), up to the time we departed for NOLA. It was a great distraction, as I was not yet ready to admit, or believe, my name will now have a “survivor” credential added to it. Now that it’s over, I feel ready to face my fate. For a trip that was only supposed to yield fond memories, it also gave me hope. Something additional to live for, because there are so many amazing places to see in this world. And I want to return to NOLA, someday. Eat more beignets and listen to the jazz bands I didn’t get the chance to hear. Stand on a balcony above Bourbon Street, tossing beads to the boobie parade below.
If I’ve learned anything in the last three-ish months, it’s to roll with the punches, even if a nasty tumor tries to take you down. Fight like hell. Like the Golden Girl you are. And if God forbid something similar happens to you, keep calm and eat beignets in NOLA. There’s a reason they call it the “Big Easy.”
Golden Girls Episode Recommendation: S2E25 A Piece of Cake
Here are the tours we went on, via Viator. I recommend all of them. No duds.
· Garden District & Lafayette Cemetery No 1
· Close to everything, including grocery and Starbucks
· Directly on parade route, so bring ear plugs if you have a street-facing room
My favorite eateries:
· Copper Vine
· Mister Oso
· Hard Rock Cafe
· Oceana Grill
· The Ruby Slipper
· Cafe Du Monde
· Sucré, for King Cake
Tips:
· Instead of google maps, use the RTA Le Pass app for walk navigation and bus/streetcar fares.
· Prearrange airport transfers or take a Taxi. Uber & Lyft up charge during Mardi Gras. And if you arrive during a parade, know you may have to schlep your bags a few blocks to your hotel due to closed streets.
· Watch where you walk! The streets and sidewalks of NOLA are full of uneven and missing bricks, as well as mystery liquid.
· Do not bring beads to Mardi Gras. Five minutes outside and you’ll have more than you can wear. No flashing required.
· Dress up! Seriously, everyone partakes, whether it’s just a purple/green/gold shirt or a full-on costume. Mardi Gras is the one time you want to fit in because it adds to the fun!
PS – To Dean, Jeff, Kristin, Tom, Ressa, Dusti, Jana, Emily, April, Lena, Sallie Ann, my kids, and to my parents and girlfriends who gifted me mad money, thank you again for the amazing trip of a lifetime. Thank you for being a friend.
